Saturday, August 25, 2012

 

Kau To Shan (九肚山) 15 August 2012


On a recent Sunday afternoon, Gibson & I set out to explore Kau To Shan. We walked 20min from Fo Tan KCR Station to reach the main road leading up to Kau To Shan. At the start of the road, there were several signboards. Besides a big signboard “Kau To Shan 九肚山”, I noticed a small signboard “Ma Liu Village马料村” and a picture suggesting “No Green Cab Allowed”. I asked myself “Am I not in New Territories, why is Green Cab1 not allowed into Kau To Shan?” “Oh? A village here?”
                                         
Kau To Shan, a hill (399m high) in Shatin, Hong Kong is dotted with many luxury residential townhouses – equivalent to the likes of Kowloon Tong in Kowloon & Shouson Hill in Hong Kong Island.  Actress Wang Fei王菲, CY Leung’s sister and many businessmen are known to live or had lived there.

Kau To Shan oversees Shatin Racecourse - could it be the reason for the many horse related street names/house names in Kau To Shan?  Ma On Path马鞍径, Ma Lok Path马乐径, Ma Ling Path马铃径, Winner Lodge, The Barogue伯乐居2. I’m not too sure. Maybe these names got to do with the nearby area called Ma Liu Shui 马料水 and/or the Ma Liu Village马料村.

As we strolled along Ma Lok Path马乐径, taking in the sights of many posh houses, private swimming pools, tennis courts and luxury cars, we stumbled on another small signboard “Ma Liu Village马料村”. We followed the sign and walked on. We saw many typical village houses, we heard villagers chatting loudly and happily, we caught sight of huge hanging jackfruits and bananas. We were ‘welcomed’ by many dogs (behind the fence) but had to put on a ‘brave’ face as we slowly & steadily walked past a pack of wandering fierce barking dogs.

We were intrigued by this place and did further research on the net when we got at home. 

Kau To Shan (九肚山) also known as 狗肚山 is originally an indigenous Hakka village settlement. The main Hakka family, surnamed Lo () found many wild dogs (豺狗) in the area and called the place 狗多. This Hakka name got twisted a little and became 狗肚 (dog’s stomach). Having a ‘dog’ as a name wasn’t too elegant and so it was subsequently changed to九肚 (nine stomachs). The number ‘Nine’ sounds the same as ‘Dog’ in Cantonese.

So, what has happened to the vast villages and wild dogs? I guess they were mostly ‘chased’ away by big property developers. Two remaining villages viz. Ma Liu Village & Kau To Village are now obscured by the luxury houses – there is no clear sign/direction to the village. I imagine the struggle of the villagers and their fight to stay. I applause the existence of these indigenous residents in Kau To Shan. I wonder for how long the villagers will stay united before caving in to the big fat cheque offered by the unscrupulous developers.

From Google Map, we discover a hiking trail from Kau To San to Taiwai. We look forward to exploring it one day.

And now, I think I know why no green cab is allowed in Kau To San.

1 Hong Kong has 3 types of taxi – Red color taxi, the most expensive and could travel anywhere in Hong Kong.  Green color taxi, the 2nd most expensive is restricted to New Territories.  Blue color taxi, the least expensive is restricted to Lantau island.

2 伯乐 is a Chinese mythical God who manages horses in heaven. 伯乐 is also used to describe someone who excels in recognizing and managing talented people.

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